Makeup: keep it fresh and flawless

SUSAN KELLY, The Gazette
Published: Saturday, February 11, 2006

When it comes to makeup, we live in the Age of Illumination.

Virtually every makeup company from Almay to Yves St. Laurent is pushing a shimmer powder, those dazzling light effects meant to be brushed on over other makeup or bare skin. Many foundations now have added sparkle as well. And that's not counting all the lipstick and eyeshadow formulas packed with special light-reflecting pigments.

But brides looking to add that special glow to their complexions might best leave the high-intensity shine products at home.

"Shimmer powders are wonderful for a night out," said makeup artist Mindy Shear, "but all wrong for weddings." That's because what looks like a lightly shimmering aura for everyday wear will look just plain shiny once the photographer begins to snap. Fortunately, professional makeup artists such as Shear know this. She's been getting brides, fashion models and music celebrities ready for their closeups for two decades.

"Experts know how much shine to put and where," she said. So if your finished makeup looks a little flat in the mirror, don't be tempted to add a little extra oomph.

Still, no one wants to look pale and washed-out in the wedding photos. Brides should put more emphasis on the perfect foundation, according to this expert, who sells her own line of makeup at her Westmount Square shop.

The former painter and ceramic artist specializes in airbrush makeup. A big trend in New York and Los Angeles, it involves a special technique and a machine similar to the one used for spray-on tans. Shear can custom-mix colours and literally paint the face, much like an artist does.

The main benefit of airbrush makeup is that it can make almost anyone's complexion look virtually flawless, she said. The liquid makeup that's applied is a lightweight, water-based formula that's also fragrance-free. It's considered ideal for most skin types, even sensitive skin.

It sits lightly on the face and will last from the morning preparations until the last dance at the reception. Yet it covers any blemishes or scars, while filling in enlarged pores or fine lines.

"I can apply the makeup down to the decollete as well," said Shear. "I've covered more than one shoulder tattoo for a bride."

It also works well for hiding tan lines.

Bronzing powder, another strong trend in makeup for spring-summer 2006, is a good idea, according to Annie Young of Annie Young Cosmetics at Avanti Le Spa. "Warmer tones photograph better," she said.

If you opt for this look, she suggests asking your wedding-day makeup artist to give you a bit of the one she is using so you can apply it as a touch-up during the day. But tone down the sparkle for eyes and lips, said Young, a specialist in designing bridal makeup looks for 20 years.

"Lip colours for the 2006 season are sheer with a hint of shine, but with more sophistication than in past seasons," she said. Shades of pink and peach remain the colours that always look picture-perfect on brides. That's because bridal makeup does not rely as heavily on trendy colours as do fashion cosmetics, Young said. It's more about bringing out the bride's natural beauty.

Eyes for spring 2006 are either smoky and sultry or soft and dewy. But when it comes to adding shine, a little goes a long way. Ultra-sparkle eyeliner or too-vibrant eyeshadow are fashion trends brides should avoid. "Adding a little extra sparkle to the eyes always looks beautiful, though," Young said.

Carol St. James is a former makeup artist turned skin-care specialist and the founder of Spa St. James on Crescent St. "Makeup can only cover so much," she said. "The better the skin, the better the makeup will look."

New advances mean there are more radiance-enhancing options than ever, beyond the time-honoured pre-wedding facial.

More recently, brides have availed themselves of a facial peel, in which a mild acid solution burns away dead skin cells to reveal healthy, glowing ones. Or a microdermabrasion session, which uses small abrasive particles to accomplish the same result.

The latest microdermabrasion system at the Spa St. James employs ultrasound. It's a much kinder, gentler technique than traditional microdermabrasion, which is not unlike sandblasting the skin. The new system means almost no discomfort, and skin is left more translucent while pores are tightened. The full regimen includes six one-hour treatments, preferably once a week, in the spa's beauty salon.

For those with uneven skin, minor imperfections or very sensitive skin, St. James recommends an IPL (Intense Pulse Light) laser treatment. Similar to the machine used for hair removal, it can perfect the complexion and remove dark spots or other imperfections, plus heighten the skin's overall radiance. Both treatments are ultra-gentle and employ no harsh chemicals.

It's best to start any such treatment six to eight weeks before the wedding, to get the maximum effect. But you can benefit from as few as one or two IPL or ultrasound microdermabrasion sessions.

"Just for that little extra boost," St. James said. "It's all about glow, and keeping it natural."

THE SKIN-CARE COUNTDOWN

Six to eight weeks before the wedding:

Book regular manicures, pedicures and facials. Discuss any specific skin-care needs - such as acne, sensitive skin, etc. - with your aesthetician and begin to address any problems. Now is the time to begin more aggressive exfoliation - with an exfoliating cream or home microdermabrasion or peel kit, or visit your skin-care specialist. Stay out of the sun and begin looking for tanning alternatives, such as self-tanning lotions for face and body. Keep working out (or start); exercise relieves stress and improves skin tone.

Four weeks before:

Time for a trial makeup session with your artist. Wear your usual makeup to the session so she'll get an idea of your everyday look. Also bring some pictures from magazines to show what looks appeal to you. Alert her to any sensitivity or allergies to makeup. Stress tends to decrease natural radiance. Some brides find that starting weekly massages at this point helps settle wedding jitters down the line.

Two weeks before:

See your dentist for regular cleaning, and possibly a bleaching session. Have a facial; touch up your hair colour.

Right before the wedding:

Confirm all makeup, hair and nail appointments for yourself and your bridesmaids. Resist the urge to try any new skin-care or makeup products, especially if you have sensitive skin. Stress may make your skin more reactive to ingredients or treatments it hasn't encountered before.

Relax. Every bride is beautiful on her wedding day. Look forward to it.