Doll face
For the natural, luminous look, a host of makeup products aim to look like
nothing at all

SUSAN KELLY, Special to The Gazette
Published: Tuesday, September 13, 2005

Fresh-faced, minimalist beauty was everywhere on world runways for this fall. Variations on the theme: porcelain dolls, luminous cherubs, bare-cheeked gamines.

Gone is the bronze-saturated summer goddess, smoky eyes, ultra-glossy lips and all.

The look for fall 2005 is an otherworldly luminosity, often over skin that appears virtually bare.

"Makeup is about creating effects and illusion," said MAC makeup artist Julie St-Laurent. Over the past 13 years, she's adapted MAC makeup looks for a host of models and celebrities, including Fergie of the Black Eyed Peas. "What we're after now is an even, perfect canvas," she said. "And very few women can go with absolutely no makeup."

St-Laurent finds it amazing how many women are still timid about using foundation. "It's as if they still have this idea it will be heavy and look like makeup," she said.

There are hundreds of new products, all formulated to appear as natural as possible. Some are light as air and contain light-reflecting qualities, which are perfect for this look.

"With the new cosmetics, there's a lot going on to make it look like nothing," according to St-Laurent.

No makeup will look right if the skin isn't properly moisturized, said makeup artist Mindy Shear,
a former painter and ceramic artist who now uses women's faces as her canvas of choice.

Happy with your old foundation, but still want the new glow? "Go with one of the new illuminating products either under or over foundation," she advised.

For more drama, especially for evening, apply a dusting of luminous finishing powder.

Teacher and makeup pro Trinidad Rivas says everything will be underplayed this fall, including the eyes and lips.

Toss the ultra-gloss and go for a light lip stain or sheer matte lipstick, he says, in a neutral colour such as honey, pink or peach kissed with beige.

It's all about overall softness, says Rivas, who over a nine-year career as a professional makeup artist has dabbed lipstick on hundreds of women, from rock stars and authors to designers' models, and teaches the subject at LaSalle College.

The eyes also are far less elaborate this season, he says. "You need some colour. But it should be so subtle you hardly know it's there.

"Although there is a counter-trend that's very dramatic, with strong colours and heavy eye makeup. You might want to save it for holiday evenings."

Baby Doll

For that baby doll look of the season,

as seen at Celine (right), what's needed is flawless foundation, luminous finish, impeccable eyes and pale lips.

1. MAC Lipstick in Entwined,

$16.50 at MAC counters.

Revlon Super Lustrous Lipstick in

Twinkled Pink, $9.50 at drugstores.

2. Clinique's new Blushing Blush in

Precious Posy, $25 at Clinique counters.

3. Estee Lauder Individualist Natural Finish Foundation, $32.50 at Estee Lauder counters.

4. DiorGlam Pearl Shimmer, limited

edition, for face and eyes, $55 at

Dior counters.

5. Benefit's eyeshadow trio in

Is This Going to Take Long?, $26 at the Bay downtown.

Miss Natural

For the natural look seen at Marc Jacobs (right): matte, barely there foundation, a hint of powder, underplayed eyes and earthy, sensual lips.

1. Almay Nearly Naked blush in Bare Pink, $10.95 at drugstores and mass

retailers.

2. Lancome Rouge Absolu reshaping and replenishing lip colour in Satin Romance, Suede de Luxe and Pink Orchid, $30 at Lancome counters.

3. MAC Blushcreme in Uncommon, $20 at MAC counters.

4. Dior Addict Ultra Gloss in No. 213, $25.50 at Dior counters.

5. Lancome Colour Focus Exceptional EyeColour in Glaze, $23 at Lancome counters.

6. Cover Girl's new Outlast All-Day Liquid Makeup, $13.99 at drugstores.

Clarins Oil-Free Colour Tint, $38 at Clarins counters.

7. Chanel Poudre Coromandel in a limited edition, $57 at Chanel beauty counters.

© The Gazette (Montreal) 2005